We spent most of the day in Positano, today. Only a 30 minute bus ride from Praiano, Positano is the most famous, and photogenic town on the Amalfi Coast. The centerpiece of the town is the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, nestled right above the beautiful black sand and pebble beach that is the heart of it all. There are several streets that wind their way down from the main road to the beach, and each is packed with small shops selling everything from expensive clothes, to souvenirs, to t-shirts, to gelato, to pottery (the Amalfi Coast is known for ceramics. You can find thousands of pieces in white, blue and yellow – many with a lemon theme, which are common in most dishes). Most of the restaurants are beach-side, with views of the Mediterranean and the various boats that fill the harbor.
We got to Positano in the late morning and headed down the main side street toward the beach. We passed the famous La Sirenuse Hotel and adjacent Franco’s Bar, both with ideal views of the town, from a small elevation. We stopped by a few shops to pick up some clothes, since our bags are still missing. Once we were at the beach area, we put our name in for lunch at Ristorante La Pergola, enjoying a few beers along the boardwalk, while we waited. Lunch was a traditional mix of local favorites: the ever-present caprese salad, some seafood, and local pasta.
Since we hadn’t been in the water yet on this trip, we headed to the beach. Watershoes would have been really nice, as the pebbles along the shoreline are not particularly comfortable to walk on. It gets better once you are in the water a bit deeper, but getting out is just as painful on your feet. Once we were rinsed off (public shower for about a euro) and air-dried, we headed back up the hill toward the bus stop, stopping along with way for a few more items of clothing. Another 30 minute bus ride and we were back at our house for a quick rest, a bit of World Cup, a glass of wine or two and a change of clothes. Then it was back to Positano. This time we took a cab, which is a more convenient, but also more expensive option. We got dropped off at the same cross-road and headed to Franco’s Bar for some drinks and photo ops. Our group had a variety of drinks, and I can safely say we all wish we’d gotten the Aperol Spritz. Probably the best either of us has ever had.
From Franco’s we headed down the city-center and checked in for our reservation at Chez Black, a Positano landmark. Wine, pasta, pizza and seafood came out from the kitchen, as the sun set over the mountains – you honestly couldn’t hope for a better setting. As is typical for a European beach towns, the action starts late and goes all night. We had lots of options from nightclubs to rooftop jazz lounges to end our night, but we opted to just head home for a nightcap. Tomorrow is a big day – boat rental to Capri. We can’t wait! Overall, Positano is an amazing town and definitely worth a revisit on a future trip!